Pinot Gets Weird
Weird can be good. Think of the first time you ever heard of salt with chocolate - it sounded like stoner food, right? But now, it's a THING. Or, what about that strange guy who was obsessed with moldy bread? Yeah, he invented penicillin.
Sometimes, though, weird takes a turn for the worse. Last weekend, we checked out a new restaurant, The Cleveland, in Nolita. We were feeling something light-bodied with moderate fruit to pair with our earthy and vegetable-heavy (not to mention delicious) dishes, so naturally, Pinot Noir seemed like the way to go. The wine buyer intrigued us with his recommendation: an organic Bourgogne that started off almost frizzante but then was supposed to become rounder and more supple. It sounded very unusual for a Bourgogne but I like bubbles, I like Pinot Noir and I like a wine adventure- sounded like a winner to me.
Les Faverelles "Le Nez de Muse," Bourgogne, 2011
This pinot noir started off slightly bubbly as it was poured into the glass, almost lambrusco-ish. The nose and palate spoke to the traditional key tones of red berry fruits, earth and violets, but the light frizzante never quite seemed to dissipate and the body was so light I would actually call it weak. That promised lushness that was supposed to appear deeper into the bottle? It was never realized. It stayed really thin and acidic the entire time, almost wimpering in fear every time it had to come into contact with food. Sadly, this was not the quirky weird we were hoping for.
Keep tasting, friends...